Undoubtedly, aquascaping is an art form. Designing and building the rock structure in a reef tank can be as satisfying as keeping the reef creatures themselves. But we should always remember that aquascaping entails a whole hell of a lot more than mere “decorating.” The hardscape in a reef tank must be built not just …
Rock and Substrate
The foundation of any reef aquarium aquascape is its rock and substrate. Both are incredibly important not just to the appearance, but also to the health, of the system. Because they cannot easily be replaced after the tank is running and stocked with animals, it is crucial that the aquarist gets this part right the first time. To be clear, when we speak of reef rock, we are referring to the chunky calcium carbonate deposits of reef organisms such as coralline algae, clams, tube worms, sponges and (primarily) stony corals. The substrate is composed of the same, being formed from precipitates from the seawater and (primarily) eroded fragments of reef rock. Aquarists source reef rock from many places. It may range from totally natural (extracted from natural reefs and shipped wet as “live” rock) or totally artificial. In terms of cost, sustainability and safety (i.e. avoiding pests), the ideal choice is natural dry reef rock. It is natural (yet sustainable) because it is derived from ancient, extinct reefs. Because it is dry, it cannot carry unwanted organisms (aiptasia anemones, bristle worms, etc.) into your system. It is easily inoculated with beneficial bacteria and even coralline after it is placed in a newly set up and functioning aquarium. Much of the above applies to the substrate (be it sand, gravel, mud, or whatever). If a more naturalist look and function are desired, it is best to use courser grades in the main tank (to simulate turbulent areas such as reef bottoms) whereas a finer material should be used in refugia, especially those housing mangroves and/or seagrasses (to simulate calm areas such as estuaries). In this section, you will learn about hardscaping, the diverse flora and fauna that live on reef rock/substrate as well as how to seed dry reef rock.
How to Get Rid of Aiptasia
When you’re first starting out your aquarium, you usually will spend all day checking on everything in your tank ensuring everything is still intact. Then, one day you look and you see this translucent looking pink flower… I receive one of two reactions from customers when they first come across Aiptasia anemones. One is panic. …
4 Great Saltwater Aquarium Substrates
Sure, maybe substrates are the last thing we dream about when we’re planning our next big tank build. Maybe some of us quite frankly don’t put much thought into it at all. But in the end, when you’re snapping those full tank shots for Facebook, you might be surprised how much the color and even …
How to Fully Condition Your Dry Reef Rock
We’re all subject to impatience. Particularly when we’re anticipating a highly gratifying event, such as adding the first round of corals to a newly set up reef aquarium. Thankfully, using dry rock, it only takes a few extra days to help ensure a clean and pest-free system from the start. There’s even an added bonus: …
What are Coralline Algae?
There are all sorts of bad algae–hair, slime, turf–and they are widely recognized by aquarists as a manifest sign of poor water quality. On the other hand, a healthy growth of calcareous algae is regarded as desirable. Calcareous forms are slow-growing yet they compete for space with (and thereby suppress) all the ugly bad forms. …
A Closer Look at Aquarium Substrates
We aquarists don’t talk much about sand. Quite frankly, it’s just not all that exciting–on the surface, anyway. But we don’t have to dig very deep to find that aquarium sand (or rather the stuff that lives within it) is not only quite interesting, but it also carries considerable importance for the health of our …
Nitrate Management in Your Saltwater Aquarium
When setting up new aquariums, most people worry about and focus on ammonia and nitrate management. Everyone knows that cycling a tank with fish is dangerous because of these two compounds, as they burn the gills and body of the fish as the tank matures. But, once these get to zero, most people are satisfied …