Let’s get one thing out of the way. Micromussa lordhowensis was previously identified as acanthastrea or “acan”. However, they were re-identified as Micromussa because they are more similar to other Micromussa than acans. Acans and Micromussa are very different corals, so the name change makes sense. With that out of the way, Micromussa are found all over the Indo-Pacific. However, mostly specimens in the hobby originate from Indonesia or Australia. The frags of Micromussa sold here are aquacultured by ORA. Instead of being collected from the ocean, these corals are grown in aquariums and then fragged to be sold to hobbyists such as yourself. There is a list of benefits that come with aquaculture corals that will be discussed below. Blue Lagoon Micromussa are a mix of green and blue with a stripe sort of pattern. The exact coloration of this coral can vary greatly depending on lighting conditions, however they will usually display some sort of green or blue color. Micromussa have large individual polyps that have a sort of bouncy or fluffy appearance when happy.
This is not a difficult coral to care for if given the proper conditions. Let’s start with lighting. Micromussa are not light demanding corals. They tend to do best in lower light around 25 to 50 micromoles of PAR, but they can be kept in more moderate light if acclimated slowly. Still, these corals will be happiest in low light. Regarding flow, Micromussa prefer low to moderate flow. You should provide just enough flow so that detritus is not settling on the coral. If you see your Micromussa display a sort of “sucked in” appearance, this might be a sign of too high lighting or flow. It is important to emphasize that with modern reef lighting, you would have to set your light setting very low to provide too little light for this coral. You are much more likely to provide too much light, which is where most hobbyists struggle with this coral. Micromussa are stony corals, so they require at least somewhat consistent levels of calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium. Of course, the more stability you can achieve the better, but this coral is somewhat forgiving with minor fluctuations. Like most LPS corals, Micromussa don’t mind “dirty water” or water with higher nutrients, but avoid getting over 30 ppm of nitrates. Higher nitrates also risk more algae growth, which can be bad for this coral. Generally, keeping your nitrates around 1-5 ppm and your phosphates as close to 0.01 ppm as possible not 0 is best, though you can have slightly higher nutrients as long as algae does not become an issue. Keep your temperature between 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit and stable. Finally, let’s talk about feeding. Micromussa have a fairly prominent feeding response which can be fun to watch. Feeding can result in better coloration and better polyp inflation. However, always be careful not to feed to much. It’s better not to feed at all than to feed too much, as Micromussa are considered photosynthetic.
Purchase Size: 1″
Placement: Bottom to middle.
Lighting: Low to medium.
Flow: Low to moderate.
Parameters: 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4, salinity 32-35 ppt
Calcium: 350-450 ppm
Alkalinity: 8-12 dKH
Magnesium: 1,250-1,350 ppm
The Blue Lagoon Micromussa is aquacultured by ORA, making it better adapted to aquarium conditions and overall hardier than corals collected from the ocean. They are also far less likely to carry pests and diseases, though you should still dip and/or quarantine them to be safe. Aquacultured corals are more likely to survive and do well in your aquarium. Along with all that, they are more sustainable and environmentally friendly.